More Than Trees: Creating Habitat for the Urban Environment

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More Than Trees: Creating Habitat for the Urban Environment

What do you see when you think of a forest? Do you see oaks or redwoods? Look below the canopy, between and below the trees. There are mosses and lichens hanging and climbing amongst branches, trunks, and rocks. The creeks and rivers are full of fish and aquatic insects. Below the soil, fungi connect the forest in a mycelial network that orchestrates communication and nutrient exchanges. Just like wild* forests, urban forests are composed of much more than just trees. Urban forests are ecosystems that integrate humans and our built environments with cultivated and wild plants, wild and domesticated animals, fungi, microorganisms, bodies of water, soil, minerals, and organic matter. Our City Forest is dedicated to planting not just trees, but also understory plants that create habitat and save water.

*For lack of a better term, I use the word “wild”. The reason this word can be problematic is that the word wild implies a place where nature lives outside of human society. It brings up images of pristine places untouched by humans. However, the myth of the pristine wilderness is highly inaccurate, especially in North America where we know that forests and other ecosystems  were tended to for thousands of years by Indigenous peoples and continue to be tended to this day.

The Urban Environment

Integrating the built environment with urban forests often requires innovation to solve problems. Ideally, the built environment (which consists of buildings, infrastructure, agricultural lands, etc.) would mesh with the rest of the environment with no conflict. However, many of the systems in urban and suburban environments make the built environment difficult to survive in and even uninhabitable in some situations. For example, the Urban Heat Island Effect describes how surfaces common in urban settings, such as glass, concrete, and asphalt, absorb and retain heat, causing higher temperatures. These higher temperatures put more physical stress on trees, animals, and other organisms in the urban forest while also evaporating more water.

Worldwide urban development has also caused habitat loss and habitat fragmentation, which are both tied to one another. Habitat loss is the reduction in total land while habitat fragmentation is the isolation of habitat islands from others. Generally, habitat loss leads to fragmentation, making it difficult and dangerous for animals to migrate, establish new ranges, escape wildlifes, and adapt to climate changes. However, it doesn’t need to be this way. Creating and maintaining habitat corridors, safe road crossing (under or over), green roofs, lawn conversions, and more can help solve the conflict between the environment and urban development and lead to integration. Our City Forest has a role in this integration not by just planting trees but also by converting lawns into drought-tolerant landscapes.

Lawns

One of the biggest issues regarding the urban environment across the United States is the lawn. In the United States, there are over 40 million acres of lawn, roughly the same size as the state of Florida! Lawns, including artificial grass, pose many negative consequences. Grass lawns consume up to 31 gallons per square foot, per week. The average residential lawn in the U.S. is 10,871 square feet (in California the average is 5,575 square feet). That’s up to 337,001 gallons of water per week to water the average U.S. lawn and up to 172,825 gallons per week in California! To put these numbers into context, the average shower is 17 gallons of water. The upper limit of water used to water the average U.S. lawn is equal to 639 showers! Alternatively, many drought-tolerant native plants usually do not need any watering once they have become established. 

Besides the issue of water use and waste, lawns and artificial grass have no ecological value. They are desolate places for most plants and wildlife. They do not provide food, shade, or shelter for animals. Many grasses used for lawns are invasive, spread easily, and can be difficult to remove or kill, such as Bermuda Grass which is common in warmer climates and is used  in San Jose. Grass like this pushes out native plants that animals and other organisms have evolved to depend on.

Non-native grass lawns are also not able to capture as much water as native grasses and other native plants. The image below demonstrates the difference in root systems between lawns and prairie plants. To the far left, you can see that the root system of typical lawn grass is only 3-4 inches, whereas the native plants to the right have root systems up to 12 feet long! Longer root systems help to stabilize the soil and prevent erosion, capture more stormwater, filter pollutants in the water before it ends up in the ocean, and help to restore groundwater.

Lawn Busters

The Lawn Busters Team at Our City Forest is dedicated to converting lawns into drought-tolerant landscapes that save water and create habitat in a county that has suffered much habitat loss and fragmentation. We plant a wide variety of native and drought-tolerant plants from California Lilacs, Penstemon, succulents, native grasses like Creeping Red Fescue and California Fescue, tree-like shrubs such as Toyon and Elderberry, various Mediterranean species, and more! In some cases we also include trees in a landscape design, but overall we focus on grasses and shrubs. While trees are important to the urban forest, shrubs are just as important and provide food, shade, and habitat for non-arboreal species.

Recently, the Lawn Busters Team sent out a wildlife reporting survey to homeowners who had their lawns converted by Our City Forest. The majority of respondents reported an increased presence of wildlife in their new landscape, especially pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds as well as lizards, hawks and other bird species, and even opossums!

In addition to transforming lawns, we also teach the community how they can transform their lawns by themselves through workshops held at our Urban Forestry Education Center. Many of the plants we use in lawn conversions can be seen in our various gardens at our Education Center and more gardens are being added, such as a bioswale, a native wildflower meadow, and a Lawn Buster’s demonstration garden.

If you would like to continue learning about the urban forests and the projects Our City Forest works on to increase San Jose’s canopy and understory, consider volunteering with us! As a volunteer, you can learn how to plant trees and shrubs, learn gardening skills, learn about native and drought-tolerant plants, climate change, community science, and more!

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Our City Forest - California Native Plants

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Our City Forest - California Native Plants

The native plants and trees in our ecosystems are indispensable. Native plant species are superior in supporting pollinators and local wildlife, such as bees, butterflies, amphibians, reptiles, and mammals, as demonstrated by ecologists, wildlife biologists, and entomologists. On the other hand, invasive plant species have the power to disrupt environments, diminish biodiversity, drive native species to extinction, and clash with them for scarce resources. This invasive species takeover can and is occurring everywhere, including California. For Californians looking to add some greenery to their yards, it  can be especially challenging to tell native plants from invasive ones. Fortunately, the general public can plant and obtain a wide variety of native California trees from Our City Forest in San Jose, CA. They take tremendous pride in the quality of their plants and go to considerable lengths to ensure that they all mature into robust, healthy trees. These are a few from their wide variety available at their nursery as of November 2023:


  1. The Acer Macrophyllum (Big Leaf Maple) is a huge deciduous tree. Although it’s typically 50 to 65 feet tall, it can grow to a height of even 100. The diameter of the trunk on the other hand, can grow to over 3 feet. Its native range extends from southernmost Alaska to southern California in western North America, primarily along the Pacific coast. 

  2. The Aesculus Californica (California Buckeye) is either seen as a tiny tree or a big shrub. It usually spreads out and has several trunks, with a broad and tall crown. This species, belonging to the Sapindaceae family, is the sole native buckeye in California. Early spring usually sees it leaf out and its creamy-white to pale pink flower spikes begin appearing- butterflies adore the blooms!

  3. The Cercis Occidentalis (Western Redbud) is a little deciduous tree that grows in California's highlands and foothills. Early in the season, the glossy heart-shaped leaves on the slender brown branches are light green, but as the season progresses, they turn a darker shade. Bright pink or magenta, beautiful flowers appear in clusters throughout the shrub in the spring and give the plant a vibrant, eye-catching appearance in the landscape.

  4. The Myrica Californica (Pacific Wax Myrtle) is a naturally occurring shrub of to the Myrtle family that is mainly found in northern and central California along the coast. It can also be found as far north as British Columbia and as far south as Los Angeles County. It has a lengthy lifespan and grows rather quickly. It develops actively in the spring and summer, reaching a tall shape up to 33 feet in height. Early summer is where you can bear witness to the blooming of its yellow flowers.

  5. The Quercus Agrifolia (Coast Live Oak) is a recognizable, magnificent tree that supports the local flora and animals. Its massive canopy and twisted branches make it easy to identify. A diverse range of birds and butterflies are drawn to the acorns of the Coast Live Oak, which blooms in the spring and provides food and habitat for over 270 different kinds of birds and insects. These hardy trees can reach mature heights of 30 to 80 feet. They can also live for decades, frequently exceeding 250 years.

  6. The Quercus Douglasii (Blue Oak) is a deciduous tree that can withstand droughts and gives local wildlife food and shelter. It provides food for insects, squirrels, and birds and serves as a host plant for numerous moth and butterfly species. Additionally, the blue-green foliage of this tree is what gave rise to its name. Blue oaks can reach heights of more than 80 feet, and their canopy can enlarge to at least 30 feet in width. 

  7. The Quercus Lobata (Valley Oak) is the biggest oak species in North America. They can grow up to 60 feet in 20 years, 20 feet in 5 years, 40 feet in 10 years, and so on; fully grown specimens can live up to 600 years. Its wavy bark, which has a pewter tint, contributes to this species' appealing appearance. October is when acorns fall throughout most of the range. They are consumed by a wide range of mammals and birds, such as the California Ground Squirrel, Acorn Woodpecker, Western Scrub Jay, and Yellow-billed Magpie. Like many oaks, this tree is resistant to wildfires.

 

These are just a few of the many, many plants available at Our City Forest. To learn more on the different species/plants available at the nursery, you can visit their website ourcityforest.org or visit them in-person at 1000 Spring St, San Jose, CA 95110. Do your part in promoting biodiversity today by considering planting some native trees. Thank you :)

Sources: ourcityforest.org & calscape.org



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The Importance of Watering Young Trees to Establishment

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The Importance of Watering Young Trees to Establishment

As the weather heats up in Santa Clara County it is crutial to stay on top of watering your tree. Young trees need water to grow healthy and be less susceptible to pests and diseases. It does not matter how drought tolerant or native the species is, all young and newly planted trees need 15-20 gallons of water a week. Our City Forest recommends watering your tree all at once to promote deep root watering.

How to Water

The best way to water your tree is to use your hose and leave it on a drip (or very slow flow) for an hour, moving the hose around every hour to different areas of the root zone. This allows the water to percolate the soil slowly which allows time for the roots to absorb the moisture. Newly planted trees have a small root network so the roots will be closer to the trunk of the tree. The older the tree gets the root network will expand and watering will need to move away from the trunk of the tree. Mature trees should be watered at the drip line, where the canopy ends.

A berm can also be built to help water a tree. A berm is a basin constructed around a tree using dirt and mulch. The berm’s purpose is to hold water to make it easier for the tree to get water. Fill the berm up with water from a hose and it will slowly percolate the ground. Trees can also be watered using 5-gallon buckets if a hose cannot reach a tree’s location. Use a shovel to break the water flow so a hole does not form where the water is being poured. Just makre sure the young tree is getting 15-20 gallons of water.

Also, watch how fast the water is draining. If the water is draining very gast, then the soil has fast drainage and extra water is needed for the tree. If the water is staying in the berm for a long time, then the soil likely has bad drainage. Checking soil moisture is encouraged especially during heat waves. To check soil moisture, use your finger and dig down 4inches below the soil about 1-2ft away from the trunk of a young tree. Mature trees check 6-12inches deep. If the soil is dry, then the tree can be watered. If the soil is still moist then only water the tree once a week. Roots need to breathe and too much water can drown the tree. The soil should be moist after watering, not waterlogged.

Why is it important?

Newly planted trees can experience transplant shock. The tree has grown up in a pot and when it is planted in the ground, it is the most stressful event in the tree’s life. The tree’s environment has changed, and it is up to the human to help the tree adapt to its new forever home. There are many things that can cause transplant shorck including: improper planting, lack of root system, weather, pest, and disease, but imporper watering is what will be focused on below.

If a tree is not getting enough water to support photosynthesis within the tree, then tree growth can be stunted. If the tree does not get more water over time, then the tree will slowly die. The root system of a tree can also die back as the tree tries to conserve nutrients. The tree can show signs of underwatering in different ways:

  • No new leaves

  • Short branches or branches stop growing

  • Leaves changing color (before fall)

  • Leaves turning brown

  • Leaves feeling crispy on tree

  • Smaller leaves than normal

  • Crown dieback/thinning canopy

If caught early enough a tree can recover from underwatering. Consistent watering can help the tree recover. Make sure the soil is kept moist. Mulch is recommended to put on top of exposed soil. The sun will hit the mulch instead of the soil allowing the soil to stay moist for longer periods of time. The mulch will also prevent evaporation.

If a tree is being watered by a sprinkler, then this can also lead to underwatering. A sprinkler only wets the top layer of soil, and the water will not penetrate deep enough to where the tree roots are. Watering by hose is recommended. Most tree roots are in the top 6 to 24inches of soil which means water needs to be able to percolate down which cannot be achieved through a sprinkler. Competing grass should also be removed from a tree’s critical root zone to avoid competition for water.

Trees can also experience overwatering. Many trees, especially ones that do well in California cannot tolerate excessive moisture. Tree roots need oxygen in the soil and excess water causes roots not to be able to absorb water. Symptoms of an over watered tree:

  • Yellow, moist leaves

  • Wilting leaves

  • Leaf scorch

  • Early leaf drop

  • Crown dieback

This is why it is important to watch how fast your soil drains. Everyone’s soil is different and typically the more clay in the soil the slower it drains. Santa Clara County does have a lot of clay in the soil, but the soil is usually classified as clay loam. When clay is very wet it expands and swells, it is usually a sticky texture, and when clay is dry it shrinks and compacts causing soil to crack. However, clay loam is easier to work with and you can use mulch to keep the soil moist.

What to remember

Keeping your young tree properly watered during the summer will set the tree up for success. It is also important to makre sure mature trees have enough water especially during drought conditions. Many trees in California adapt to the Mediterranean Climate, dry summers & wet winters. However, in drought years or years with low rainfall, mature trees need to be watered. Remember, younger trees need consistent watering for at least the first 5 years after planting. If a tree is planted in the summer, makre sure the tree is diligently watered and check soil moisture every 2-3 days. During heat waves check soil moisture of all tree, mature and young, every couple of days because trees usually need twice as much water. The best time of the day to water your tree is either in the morening or at night when the weather is cooler as less evaporation will take place. Check out our Watering Guide.

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